Since I've gotten here, I definitely interact more with people on the street. Etiquette calls for it. I smile at people and say "good morning/afternoon/evening" if I make eye contact. Yesterday, a wild-guesser of my Ghanaian name guessed it right, so I responded to him.
Another thing I've found I like doing is naming people whose names I don't know. Our upstairs neighbors have someone in the house who likes to wander around in high-heeled shoes. She's been dubbed Lady Click-Click. And the woman who I pass on my way to Oxford Street, who sells fruit of all kinds and always greets me as "my friend," is Madame Pineapple, for the first fruit she sold me.
Speaking of the heel-happy wanderer upstairs, since Monday I've heard lots of hammering on their floor/our ceiling. The guards tell me they're replacing the floor tiles, which had started to crack. I do wonder if there's a correlation between the tile cracks showing up and Lady Click-Click suddenly (knock on wood!) toning it way down on the indoor heel-wearing a couple weeks ago.
I'm thinking of starting up an occasional food blog separate of this one, where I post pictures of the stuff I cook. I'd call it Ghana Gourmet or something gimmicky like that. Then again, with my photo album Cooking Exploits already on facebook, I don't know if there's a need. Also, in the tradition of other food bloggers I think I'd be obligated to type up every recipe I cooked - and that's tedious, yo!
Public, would you be interested? And what's a better name than Ghana Gourmet?
Saturday there's a festival on called Chale Wote, which translates to "Buddy, let's go" and also is the slang name for flip-flops here. It's a street art and performance festival (as far as I can tell) happening in Jamestown, the historical center of the city which has lately become quite run-down. It's been organized by accra.alt, which I know a couple local expat bloggers are involved in and I'm excited to learn more about.
Thursday, July 14, 2011
Tuesday, July 12, 2011
a productive day.
Today I felt quite productive. It's funny what qualifies as "productive," seeing as how a good bit of the time I wasn't even successful. I was trying to make reservations at hotels in Togo for my parents' visit, and find some information on medication here. None of the calls to Togo went through, and each one cost me 82p per minute just for the ringing line. That doesn't seem normal. I don't think I'm dialing wrong, either... country code + seven digits is what the Internet assured me I should do. I used about 4 cedis of credit today and hardly talked to anyone.
Anyhow, though, after all these phone calls, I was able to shift the rooms reserved in Elmina and find a lovely-looking hotel in Lome who (thankfully) responded to an email although they didn't pick up the phones. Hoorah, we'll be staying in the Hotel Bellevue. Hope it's nearly as nice as the photos seem!
I also drove way over past the mall, spending 45 minutes in traffic for a 20-something-minute drive, to put down a deposit on our TV stand with the carpentress who custom-made our lovely DVD rack. The TV stand will hold our TV and be flanked by shelves, specifically designed by us. It'll have a bit of Ghanaian-style hammered-metal embellishment, and be a dark brown color. It may take a while to make but I think it'll be worth it. Anyone in the market for well-made and classy wood products from shelves to mirrors, picture frames to lamps, may I please recommend Marihap Handicrafts, across the street from Wild Gecko.
I finished off the evening with German class. We have an exam next week. This is a big one - the Zertifikat Deutsch, which is actually nationally recognized. For example, it's the minimum language requirement for citizenship. I aced the last Goethe end-of-level exam but since then we've gotten into grittier grammar and the tests themselves are tougher tasks. One of the speaking tests has us sharing and comparing info from graphs with our partners. Somehow I seem to start every sentence with "I find it surprising/funny/interesting that..."
Off to CEPEHRG tomorrow. Plans are coming together for my parents' visit - including them filling up a rather long shopping list! The Amazon orders should all get there with plenty of time to spare... I'm ordering a dozen books and loads of camera accessories, since lately I have been getting more serious about my photography (or at least about my photos looking their best).
Right, bedtime!
Anyhow, though, after all these phone calls, I was able to shift the rooms reserved in Elmina and find a lovely-looking hotel in Lome who (thankfully) responded to an email although they didn't pick up the phones. Hoorah, we'll be staying in the Hotel Bellevue. Hope it's nearly as nice as the photos seem!
I also drove way over past the mall, spending 45 minutes in traffic for a 20-something-minute drive, to put down a deposit on our TV stand with the carpentress who custom-made our lovely DVD rack. The TV stand will hold our TV and be flanked by shelves, specifically designed by us. It'll have a bit of Ghanaian-style hammered-metal embellishment, and be a dark brown color. It may take a while to make but I think it'll be worth it. Anyone in the market for well-made and classy wood products from shelves to mirrors, picture frames to lamps, may I please recommend Marihap Handicrafts, across the street from Wild Gecko.
I finished off the evening with German class. We have an exam next week. This is a big one - the Zertifikat Deutsch, which is actually nationally recognized. For example, it's the minimum language requirement for citizenship. I aced the last Goethe end-of-level exam but since then we've gotten into grittier grammar and the tests themselves are tougher tasks. One of the speaking tests has us sharing and comparing info from graphs with our partners. Somehow I seem to start every sentence with "I find it surprising/funny/interesting that..."
Off to CEPEHRG tomorrow. Plans are coming together for my parents' visit - including them filling up a rather long shopping list! The Amazon orders should all get there with plenty of time to spare... I'm ordering a dozen books and loads of camera accessories, since lately I have been getting more serious about my photography (or at least about my photos looking their best).
Right, bedtime!
Monday, July 11, 2011
the job hunt
I'll be honest. I cruised for the first three and a half months. Really. It was only two weeks ago that I seriously told myself I'd had enough of sitting around at home or running errands and started looking for job postings - and now three people have approached me with other opportunities as well. All it takes is a switch of attitude... that, and finally realizing what kind of a title I can talk to people about. Following in my dear mom's footsteps, I'm going to try my hand at communications - or what passes for it around here.
I've also finally transitioned into the mindset (long overdue) of applying for everything, whether or not I'd like every facet of the job or believe myself to be over- or underqualified. Just getting my name out there is a big start.
So this week I'm applying to Ashesi, a university with a liberal-arts background towards more technical and business-related disciplines - although they've relocated 14 miles away and I don't know how I'd commute.
I'm emailing embassies, who may need English-speaking visa application officers.
I've sent in a CV to West Africa Trade Hub, of whom the head of the communications office mentioned they need writers.
I'm applying to be a Tour Professional, whatever that means.
I'm also applying to a Community Management Assistant program run through Johns Hopkins using such essential keywords as "capacity building" and "implementing activities."
Finally, I'll be sending in a CV to a PR company looking to start a branch in Ghana, which may or may not need an agent on the ground.
It's a good start, and I hope just as many opportunities arise for me next week.
I've also finally transitioned into the mindset (long overdue) of applying for everything, whether or not I'd like every facet of the job or believe myself to be over- or underqualified. Just getting my name out there is a big start.
So this week I'm applying to Ashesi, a university with a liberal-arts background towards more technical and business-related disciplines - although they've relocated 14 miles away and I don't know how I'd commute.
I'm emailing embassies, who may need English-speaking visa application officers.
I've sent in a CV to West Africa Trade Hub, of whom the head of the communications office mentioned they need writers.
I'm applying to be a Tour Professional, whatever that means.
I'm also applying to a Community Management Assistant program run through Johns Hopkins using such essential keywords as "capacity building" and "implementing activities."
Finally, I'll be sending in a CV to a PR company looking to start a branch in Ghana, which may or may not need an agent on the ground.
It's a good start, and I hope just as many opportunities arise for me next week.
Photo Post: My 'hood
You can see the Presidential Palace, locally known as Jubilee House, from our balcony. Well, depending on weather. It's that far-away one in the middle of the frame shaped like a traditional Ghanaian chief's stool.
water bottle football game... our house is across the street to the left
around the corner, these electricity men were replacing power lines. Some time in the evening, a cord was cut and the power was out for upwards of 12 hours.
nearby Ako Adjei Park, where football practice happens twice a day, backed by a Methodist church
AMA is the Accra Municipal Authority, who sweep different neighborhoods every day looking for businesses operating without registration - and anoint them as seen above. One person said AMA is just looking for a bribe. This blogger has no comment.
Monday, July 4, 2011
Ghanaian Names
Naming conventions in Ghana never cease to make me grin. Apart from the run of names you hear around most of the English-speaking world, there are three ways this can go, as I've seen it in Accra so far:
1. Names ranging from the old-fashioned to the biblical. Dorcas, Mabel, Enoch, and a dozen Emmanuels to every one of everybody else.
2. Out-there names describing personality characteristics, or hopes. Allswell, God's Willing, Wonder, and the slightly more everyday Patience, Constance, Mercy, Charity, or Wisdom.
3. Traditional naming. Every day of the week has one or two assigned names for each gender. Because I was born on a Tuesday, my Ghanaian name is Abena (OBB-nah or, as the caretaker of our building often says it, Abrah). People on the street who want to address you but don't know your name, if they choose not to yell out "Obroni!", will take a one-in-seven chance and call out one day name or other. Most commonly I think I've heard Akosua and Adjoa. If I'm in a mood to respond, I'll say hello and tell them to call me by the right name!
There's a Facebook application that figures out this process for you, or if you'd rather not link it to your profile, just find your day of birth (here's one such site) and match it to your name! Taken from another blog, I present you with names and characteristics of each day. I just discovered that both kids in my family were born on Tuesday, but I don't know exactly how well these qualities describe me or Z. Jens is Kojo, meanwhile. Our guards often use these names as they roll off the Ghanaian tongue - much easier than the neighbor girls' pronunciation of my name: "Hello Frantchka!"
1. Names ranging from the old-fashioned to the biblical. Dorcas, Mabel, Enoch, and a dozen Emmanuels to every one of everybody else.
2. Out-there names describing personality characteristics, or hopes. Allswell, God's Willing, Wonder, and the slightly more everyday Patience, Constance, Mercy, Charity, or Wisdom.
3. Traditional naming. Every day of the week has one or two assigned names for each gender. Because I was born on a Tuesday, my Ghanaian name is Abena (OBB-nah or, as the caretaker of our building often says it, Abrah). People on the street who want to address you but don't know your name, if they choose not to yell out "Obroni!", will take a one-in-seven chance and call out one day name or other. Most commonly I think I've heard Akosua and Adjoa. If I'm in a mood to respond, I'll say hello and tell them to call me by the right name!
There's a Facebook application that figures out this process for you, or if you'd rather not link it to your profile, just find your day of birth (here's one such site) and match it to your name! Taken from another blog, I present you with names and characteristics of each day. I just discovered that both kids in my family were born on Tuesday, but I don't know exactly how well these qualities describe me or Z. Jens is Kojo, meanwhile. Our guards often use these names as they roll off the Ghanaian tongue - much easier than the neighbor girls' pronunciation of my name: "Hello Frantchka!"
Males
Monday: Kojo, Kwadwo, Jojo, Cudjoe
Tuesday: Kwabena, Ebo, Kobena, Kobina, Kobby
Wednesday: Kwaku, Kweku
Thursday: Yaw, Ekow, Yao, Yokow
Friday: Kofi, Fiifi, Yoofi
Saturday: Kwame, Ato, Atoapem, Kwamena, Kwami
Sunday: Kwasi, Akwasi, Kwesi
Monday: Kojo, Kwadwo, Jojo, Cudjoe
Tuesday: Kwabena, Ebo, Kobena, Kobina, Kobby
Wednesday: Kwaku, Kweku
Thursday: Yaw, Ekow, Yao, Yokow
Friday: Kofi, Fiifi, Yoofi
Saturday: Kwame, Ato, Atoapem, Kwamena, Kwami
Sunday: Kwasi, Akwasi, Kwesi
Females
Monday: Adwoa, Adzo, Ajoba, Ejo, Adjoa
Tuesday: Abena, Abla, Araba, Abina
Wednesday: Akua, Akuba
Thursday: Yaa, Aba, Yaaba, Yaayaa
Friday: Afua, Afi, Afia, Efie, Efua
Saturday: Ama, Amma, Awo
Sunday: Akosua, Esi, Kisi
Monday: Adwoa, Adzo, Ajoba, Ejo, Adjoa
Tuesday: Abena, Abla, Araba, Abina
Wednesday: Akua, Akuba
Thursday: Yaa, Aba, Yaaba, Yaayaa
Friday: Afua, Afi, Afia, Efie, Efua
Saturday: Ama, Amma, Awo
Sunday: Akosua, Esi, Kisi
Characteristics of Each Day
Monday’s child is the father or mother in the family; nurturing in nature, dependable and organized, and protective of his/her family.
Tuesday’s child is the problem solver and planner of the family. They are structured in nature, neutral in all matters and never takes sides.
Wednesday’s child is fully in control of every situation, does not want to be told what to do, knows it all, is spontaneous, vibrant and cordial. Be sure not to cross his or her path though…
Thursday’s child is quiet in nature and incredibly observant. They are generally listeners, not talkers, and analyzes situations very well.
Friday’s child is a leader, not a follower. He/she is very temperamental but has a big heart. Generally the instigator of everything.
Saturday’s child likes to take control of family situations. He/she runs the show and make the rules, but will go out of his/her way for others anytime.
Sunday’s child is the passive, sensitive and warm member of the family. He/she tends to be shy and likes to keep to his/her self, but is very aware of his/her surroundings and usually is the secret keeper of the family.
Otherwise, I'm coming down with my first West African cold, starting up with a four-day sore throat. Taking it easy today in hopes that it fades pretty quickly. Something has been going around for the past couple of weeks, though. I'm planning for my parents' visit at the beginning of August, and getting ready for yet another exam at the Goethe Institut signifying that I've finished level B1 and ready to become an upper-intermediate. That concept is very hard to believe; loads of my upper-intermediate students in Dublin were leagues ahead of where I see myself!
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
The Batik Saga
We have a cool three-papasan (bowl chair) set on our balcony. However, the fabric covering the cushions is horrid. So I'd been on the lookout for a nice batik fabric so our curtain designer could make cushion covers for us. He told us he'd need 18 yards.
I passed by a little batik stall on Oxford Street and asked the woman if she could get 18 yards of fabric made in a certain pattern that struck me. After some arguing, she got me to pay in full up-front, because she was a "good Christian" and promised she "is not cheating me." The cost she gave me was 5.50 cedis per yard. This was a Thursday and she said it'd be ready next Tuesday or Wednesday.
Tuesday morning came and she called me, informing me she had been sick recently and hadn't been able to go to her batik maker. The fabric should be ready on Friday.
Friday comes. Monday comes. No word. Tuesday I call her.
She tells me, "Yes, it's ready." So I come to get it.
When I arrive, 14 yards are waiting for me. I ask where the other four yards are. She said, "O, there were extra costs for the dye and the fabric- because this is a special order. I didn't know if I should use my own money to get the 18 yards."
Yes, she should have. I didn't order 18 yards in the expectation I'd be getting 14. And I would have told her that, if she'd called me when she learned the news.
As I looked around the stall, I saw she had two other 2-yard pieces which had same pattern as the 14 yards, so I bought them and left. I wasn't at home when the designer came to get the fabric, but Jens was. And the two men agreed that the 14-yards of fabric and the 4-yards of fabric were too noticeably different.
Thursday I called the batik lady again to let her know she needed to go back and get four more yards identical to the fourteen. And she needed a piece of the 14-yards of fabric so her batik maker could copy it. I spent half an hour with her hashing out the costs she expected. How much are the dyes, and how much does fabric cost per yard? There was also the workmanship fee. I took away from that cost what I'd already paid for the 4 yards of different fabric. And I made it clear she should call me if ANY issue came up. This happened Thursday evening and she said it'd be done by Tuesday or Wednesday.
The next Thursday (this is three weeks after the original "it'll be done in five days") I come to her. She gives me the four yards. Then she tells me a story.
She had to travel to the batik maker's house by herself. She went to the batik maker's shop, but he was in the hospital. So she had to travel to his house, with his brother, in a taxi. It was in the north and she didn't know how far it was or how much she should pay for the taxi. So along with the costs of the fabric, she needed an extra 16 cedis for her transportation.
I paid her just to have this whole gong show ended. And then I gave the fabric to the designer, feeling that for a cheap batik pattern, it really wasn't worth it at all. I would have gotten a better deal going to a big fabric store and paying 8 or 9 cedis per yard, when they would have had the entire quantity I needed at once. And it would have been better quality, too.
We get back from our trip to Zanzibar and the designer brings over the cushion covers. When he gets to our balcony he seems surprised. He tells me he thought we had two large papasans and two small. We only have one large, and two small. So now we have two covers for the one big cushion.
I'm sure if the designer had had the right numbers, I wouldn't have needed those extra 4 yards at all.
Total cost: 99 cedis originally plus 3 cedis transportation the first time she went to see him; 22 for the extra but different four yards. Another 16 for the extra four yards. 16 for transportation. And three weeks of time. Then 50 for the designer plus another two and a half weeks. What a nightmare... although pretty benign, all things considered.
But it's over. We have batik cushion covers for our papasans. And when those wear out, I'll go and buy the next batch of fabric from a big fabric store. No question about that.
I passed by a little batik stall on Oxford Street and asked the woman if she could get 18 yards of fabric made in a certain pattern that struck me. After some arguing, she got me to pay in full up-front, because she was a "good Christian" and promised she "is not cheating me." The cost she gave me was 5.50 cedis per yard. This was a Thursday and she said it'd be ready next Tuesday or Wednesday.
Tuesday morning came and she called me, informing me she had been sick recently and hadn't been able to go to her batik maker. The fabric should be ready on Friday.
Friday comes. Monday comes. No word. Tuesday I call her.
She tells me, "Yes, it's ready." So I come to get it.
When I arrive, 14 yards are waiting for me. I ask where the other four yards are. She said, "O, there were extra costs for the dye and the fabric- because this is a special order. I didn't know if I should use my own money to get the 18 yards."
Yes, she should have. I didn't order 18 yards in the expectation I'd be getting 14. And I would have told her that, if she'd called me when she learned the news.
As I looked around the stall, I saw she had two other 2-yard pieces which had same pattern as the 14 yards, so I bought them and left. I wasn't at home when the designer came to get the fabric, but Jens was. And the two men agreed that the 14-yards of fabric and the 4-yards of fabric were too noticeably different.
Thursday I called the batik lady again to let her know she needed to go back and get four more yards identical to the fourteen. And she needed a piece of the 14-yards of fabric so her batik maker could copy it. I spent half an hour with her hashing out the costs she expected. How much are the dyes, and how much does fabric cost per yard? There was also the workmanship fee. I took away from that cost what I'd already paid for the 4 yards of different fabric. And I made it clear she should call me if ANY issue came up. This happened Thursday evening and she said it'd be done by Tuesday or Wednesday.
The next Thursday (this is three weeks after the original "it'll be done in five days") I come to her. She gives me the four yards. Then she tells me a story.
She had to travel to the batik maker's house by herself. She went to the batik maker's shop, but he was in the hospital. So she had to travel to his house, with his brother, in a taxi. It was in the north and she didn't know how far it was or how much she should pay for the taxi. So along with the costs of the fabric, she needed an extra 16 cedis for her transportation.
I paid her just to have this whole gong show ended. And then I gave the fabric to the designer, feeling that for a cheap batik pattern, it really wasn't worth it at all. I would have gotten a better deal going to a big fabric store and paying 8 or 9 cedis per yard, when they would have had the entire quantity I needed at once. And it would have been better quality, too.
We get back from our trip to Zanzibar and the designer brings over the cushion covers. When he gets to our balcony he seems surprised. He tells me he thought we had two large papasans and two small. We only have one large, and two small. So now we have two covers for the one big cushion.
I'm sure if the designer had had the right numbers, I wouldn't have needed those extra 4 yards at all.
Total cost: 99 cedis originally plus 3 cedis transportation the first time she went to see him; 22 for the extra but different four yards. Another 16 for the extra four yards. 16 for transportation. And three weeks of time. Then 50 for the designer plus another two and a half weeks. What a nightmare... although pretty benign, all things considered.
But it's over. We have batik cushion covers for our papasans. And when those wear out, I'll go and buy the next batch of fabric from a big fabric store. No question about that.
Monday, June 27, 2011
Responsibility is a Hot Potato
Tossing around the blame is a big, big thing here. As a Westerner it's hard to come to terms with it: a person believes they are absolved if they are able to explain away their involvement in something not-ideal. All over the place it happens. "Madame, it is not my fault o!" And they think that forgives them. I was talking to my family about culture and how it probably does mean something here - but I wonder, then... do they ever try to pursue the blame to its root and punish the original sinner? Or is it enough for everyone involved in the last step to shrug off the guilt?
There are many viruses floating around the technology here. When a friend at CEPEHRG asked me to give him some files on his USB stick, my anti-virus popped up as soon as I plugged it into my computer and informed me there were two viruses on it. "It's not from me!" he cried, shocked. "Those are from THAT machine!" and he pointed to a colleague's laptop. To which I replied, "It's also not your fault if you have HIV, but that doesn't mean I'll take the risk with you!"
At the seamstress (yes, I've had two dresses made) last week, I overheard an interview on the radio. It was the chief of the local waste-removal company, and the interviewer asked him, "So, why has rubbish been piling up on all the street corners? Why are the trucks not running?"
The Zoomlion executive answered, "Well, the Environmental Protection Agency has closed two of our three dump sites. So there's no place to bring the waste, and trucks find it hard to dump their waste when the landfill is already full. You see, it is impossible when we only have one dump site."
A Westerner would have at least assured the audience that they were working on a solution.
Then another waste-related executive spoke up. "We are trying to implement recycling and composting programs. We think they are the future. However, it's very very expensive and we won't be able to do it without a lot of external help."
You could have read his comment two ways, so it was either "We have hope, as long as some other countries can help us out...." or else, "We have this plan, but it's impossible. So that's why we're not implementing it at all."
Is this a culture clash? Should it be okay for people to write off absences, failures, missed deadlines, and lack of effort to external factors? Traffic, rain, illness (is it me, or do a lot of people take sick days here?)
Is this the inner American-workaholic in me shining through? The accountability-holic?
I had an interview for a job on Wednesday, and while I'd appreciate y'all keeping your fingers crossed for me, I don't want to share more for fear I'll jinx it. I believe it went well but I am not sure. If anyone is available to help me beef up an application for USAID which is due on Thursday, let me know. I'm still sticking with the "reach" jobs for now, but am happy that I've found the drive to be looking.
I should also mention, we have our own PO box now, rather than sharing with Jens's boss's mother! A PO box is hard to get because numbers are so limited. I was lucky to pass by our local post office at the right moment and see a sign advertising reallocated PO boxes.
If anyone wants to send letters or packages, address them to P.O. Box OS 2755, Osu, Accra, Ghana.
There are many viruses floating around the technology here. When a friend at CEPEHRG asked me to give him some files on his USB stick, my anti-virus popped up as soon as I plugged it into my computer and informed me there were two viruses on it. "It's not from me!" he cried, shocked. "Those are from THAT machine!" and he pointed to a colleague's laptop. To which I replied, "It's also not your fault if you have HIV, but that doesn't mean I'll take the risk with you!"
At the seamstress (yes, I've had two dresses made) last week, I overheard an interview on the radio. It was the chief of the local waste-removal company, and the interviewer asked him, "So, why has rubbish been piling up on all the street corners? Why are the trucks not running?"
The Zoomlion executive answered, "Well, the Environmental Protection Agency has closed two of our three dump sites. So there's no place to bring the waste, and trucks find it hard to dump their waste when the landfill is already full. You see, it is impossible when we only have one dump site."
A Westerner would have at least assured the audience that they were working on a solution.
Then another waste-related executive spoke up. "We are trying to implement recycling and composting programs. We think they are the future. However, it's very very expensive and we won't be able to do it without a lot of external help."
You could have read his comment two ways, so it was either "We have hope, as long as some other countries can help us out...." or else, "We have this plan, but it's impossible. So that's why we're not implementing it at all."
Is this a culture clash? Should it be okay for people to write off absences, failures, missed deadlines, and lack of effort to external factors? Traffic, rain, illness (is it me, or do a lot of people take sick days here?)
Is this the inner American-workaholic in me shining through? The accountability-holic?
I had an interview for a job on Wednesday, and while I'd appreciate y'all keeping your fingers crossed for me, I don't want to share more for fear I'll jinx it. I believe it went well but I am not sure. If anyone is available to help me beef up an application for USAID which is due on Thursday, let me know. I'm still sticking with the "reach" jobs for now, but am happy that I've found the drive to be looking.
I should also mention, we have our own PO box now, rather than sharing with Jens's boss's mother! A PO box is hard to get because numbers are so limited. I was lucky to pass by our local post office at the right moment and see a sign advertising reallocated PO boxes.
If anyone wants to send letters or packages, address them to P.O. Box OS 2755, Osu, Accra, Ghana.
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